Thursday, October 29, 2009

Fes, Part Three: The Merdersa



Dear readers,

Here's a glimpse into the other Morocco, that of stunning architecture and craftsman ship. These pictures are from the Bou Inania Merdersa in Fes (a merdasa is a "madrasa" in standard Arabic, or "school"). This was a residential college, where students would study religion, law, science and art, and was built in the 14th century by one Abou Inan, a sultan.

The three pictures show the carved wooden screen and doors at the main entrance (cedar, I believe); the bands of tilework (called "jellij") and calligraphy that encompass the main courtyard; and the projection of light through stained glass onto a door in the prayer hall. (The stained glass was surprising to see in North Africa!)





The square courtyard was paved in onyx and marble, with a large marble fountain in the center, where students would cleanse themselves prior to prayer. We were able to see the small stone cells on the second floor, in which the students slept, each with a little wooden screened window. Not bad at all - kind of like a monastery.


Fes was and is considered the most learned of Morocco's cities, so this merdasa was an important institution, and home to great scholars over the centuries. It's also one of the few Islamic buildings in Morocco that is open to non-Muslims. (As a side note, non-Muslims can enter mosques in most places, for example, the Taj Mahal is a mosque, but here in Morocco, it's forbidden. Why? Well, the French actually made the law when Morocco became a protectorate in 1912. They wanted to reassure the locals that they would not interfere with religious life. When Morocco gained independence in 1956, the new country decided to keep the law in place.)


So, that completes my Fes trilogy. One more post tonight, about Fes' sister city Meknes, and then I'm all caught up on my blog.

This weekend we will travel to the fabulous city of Marrekesh (for which Morocco is named), and the following weekend, we're heading to Cairo and the Pyramids.

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